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identity interviews ornamentalist Pierre-Marie Agin on collaborating with Saint-Louis on the Chamade collection
Pierre-Marie Agin
Tenor
At Milan Design Week, the Chamade collection by Saint-Louis and ornamentalist Pierre Marie Agin made its dazzling debut, capturing the imagination of design enthusiasts and artisans alike. The collaboration celebrates the vibrant world of crystal craftsmanship, with Pierre Marie’s visionary design rooted in a deep appreciation of colour, pattern and time-honoured techniques. Known for his work with textiles, tapestries and even Hermès silk squares, Pierre Marie brings his rich background to the table, reimagining crystal in a way that harmonises history with contemporary fantasy.
The Chamade collection is a symphony of sculptural pieces that merge the delicate art of crystal-making with the vibrancy of Pierre Marie’s imagination. The collection draws its inspiration from two central motifs: flowers and music. Pierre Marie’s love for the tulip vases of Delft and the trumpet en chamade – a musical nod to the organ he played during lockdown – formed the backbone of this unique design. He explains, “Chamade is a word that touches me deeply. In French expressions, it evokes a wild heartbeat, the sound of a trumpet or drum signalling surrender or peace. I wanted these emotions to echo through the collection.”
The resulting three vases are not just ornamental objects but sculptural entities, each blending functionality with an ethereal presence. The crystal, shaped and cut by master craftsmen using traditional hand-cutting techniques, transforms into a canvas for Pierre Marie’s creative vision. The intricate patterns of bevel and pearl cuts, taking up to 17 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, demonstrate an athleticism that Pierre Marie admits he had not anticipated. He was mesmerised by the physicality of the process, a testament to the skill and artistry involved.
Pierre Marie’s use of colour in the Chamade collection is another standout feature. Saint-Louis is renowned for its exquisite crystal hues, but Pierre Marie, who has a background in textiles and tapestry, brings a fresh perspective. “I questioned the centuries-old practices and showed that vibrant hues can harmonise beautifully with the right balance and proportion,” he says. His innovative use of double-fused layering, where two layers of crystal in different colours are fused together and then carved, creates a striking contrast between neutral backdrops and vivid floral hues. This technique allowed him to bring his bold colour vision to life, particularly with the trumpet-shaped bud vases. Presenting these creations at Milan Design Week was a magical moment for Pierre Marie. He reveals, “I think people were surprised by the scale of the pieces. They are almost like characters – there’s a sense of discovery, a close encounter.” Displayed in the evocative setting of Santa Maria del Carmine church, the crystal works took on a new level of enchantment, as light and colour played across the intricate surfaces, magnifying the craftsmanship and artistic intent behind each piece.
Beyond the beauty of the objects themselves, Pierre Marie sees the Chamade collection as a tribute to the centuries-old craft of crystal making, which was recently included on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. He feels a deep responsibility to honour this recognition, saying, “This collection celebrates the artisans’ work and the protean nature of crystal, a material that has driven this art form for generations.” As an ‘ornamentalist’, Pierre Marie sees his role not just as a decorator or designer of objects, but as a creator of experiences that evoke joy, contemplation and serenity. “Decoration is about choosing one curve over another, getting lost in a pattern. It’s a gentle, satisfying respite for the brain,” he reflects. This philosophy permeates his work, allowing him to weave a sense of harmony and enchantment into each piece.
Looking to the future, Pierre Marie is preparing to open a new creative studio in Paris this autumn, where he plans to take on even more global projects. As his work continues to evolve, the Chamade collection marks a pivotal moment in his journey – a celebration of craftsmanship, creativity and the boundless possibilities of ornamentation.
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